Rites of Passage

When I first started surfing, I wanted so bad to be riding a short board, like all the cool kids. But, I realized - with some gentle coaching from my more advanced friends - that to start out on a short board would be extremely misguided.

As a beginner, I needed to maximize my “Time on Wave” (TOW). That means actually standing up and riding, not just duck-diving & paddling. So, they encouraged me to buy a Wavestorm. The cheapest foam board offered from Costco. It’s the one that everybody starts with. So, despite my ego’s resistance, I heeded their advice and I relented.

Turns out they were right. This starter board was exactly what I needed, even though it reaffirmed my identity as a Beginner in the eyes of the other guys in the lineup. More important than boosting my ego, it made it easier for me to catch waves. And maximizing my TOW was the only way to progress.

Putting the ego in check.

Being willing to take the baby steps.

Unafraid to be labeled as a Beginner.

I realized that these were the essential ingredients to actually getting better.

So, I surfed on my blue & white foamie for about 3 months. I battled through a lotta falls on that board. But it also helped me rise up.

Then, once I was ready, I bought my first hard-top board (but not until I had a grand debate over the $500 price tag): a 7’8” Paragon Mini Log. (For the purists among us, they might even say that this isn’t “real surfing" - that I should be riding a short board to prove my worth in the lineup. But at this point, I didn’t really care about their judgment. I was too busy to notice the way they looked at me. I was too busy having too much fun.)

I’m glad I didn’t buy the Mini Log right out of the gates. When I did make the purchase, it became a chance to reaffirm my commitment. By graduating from the Wavestorm to the Paragon, I got a chance to celebrate my own graduation. It became a signal to myself: I am a surfer. And I am progressing.

P.S. - one of the best surfers I’ve ever seen absolutely whipped on a Wavestorm. On a day when 5ft+ waves were firing, he showed up everyone in the lineup. A testament to the fact that it’s not about the hardware, it’s about how you use it.